“What everyone knows about the caper in terms of taste is actually the result of a distortion of its flavour profile by sea salt,” says the great Sicilian pastry chef Corrado Assenza. A new product, therefore, “that is derived from fresh capers but is not actually fresh capers.” With his habit of observing when everybody else looks, to try to find something where nobody else has yet tried, Assenza tells us, accompanied by Johanna Ekmark’s photos, his own personal research journey: trying to uncover the taste of the caper through the alchemy of honey, the smallest of the fruits from the generous land that is Sicily.
